At the
end of our 17th day on the road, we checked in to our Hampton Inn in
Hadley Massachusetts and then went out looking for a place to eat. We checked out one place that didn’t appeal
to us and another, an Italian restaurant that did appeal to us…but it was
booked solid! I had an image of
Northampton as a beat up old industrial town…but we’d run out of options so we
decided to cross the Connecticut River bridge and see what the town had to
offer.
Once
again, I was reminded to never ‘assume’ anything! Northampton was a surprise to both of
us. Northampton is an academic,
artistic, music and countercultural center.
This cleverly decorated railroad bridge and walkway set the tone for me. This town of about 28,500 residents is
roughly 15 miles north of Springfield Massachusetts and while it did suffer
somewhat with the decline of manufacturing in the area, that endeavor was never
the key to Northampton’s existence.
Downtown
Northampton is alive and well, with hotels, restaurants and shops…
Conservatives
beware! Northampton is reputed to be the
most politically liberal medium sized city in the United States. Numerous alternative health and intellectual
organizations are located here. The city
has a high proportion of citizens who identify as gay and lesbian and it’s a
popular destination for the LGBT community. I sure didn't see any MAGA hats!
The area
has always seemed to be ahead of its time.
Congregational preacher, theologian and philosopher Jonathan Edwards
sparked the 1734 Christian Revival in Northampton. This led to the Great Awakening under his leadership. By way of contrast vs. Northampton’s current
political leanings, Edwards is considered one of the founders of what we call
today evangelical Christianity.
To learn
more about Jonathan Edwards go to https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jonathan_Edwards_(theologian),
and to learn about the Great Awakening go to https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Great_Awakening.
In any case,
we were just looking for good place to eat in a casual atmosphere…
After
looking around a bit and checking out street-side menus, we decided to have
dinner at Fitzwilly’s Restaurant and the Toasted Owl Bar. They must be doing something right here since
this dining venue has been in business here since 1974…45 years as of 2019.
The Toasted Owl
Bar is massive, attractive and impressive.
It was busy when we arrived and much busier when we finished our dinners
and departed.
This was
one of the dining areas. It was warm and
cozy despite the high ceilings. Note the
old brick wall on the left. I wonder
what occupied this space in the early 1900s…
Then we
looked up and noted the brick arches from another era and yet another area for
diners.
FYI... The first
permanent settlement of the area took place in 1654. The town itself was incorporated in
1775. The town and surrounding area
played a key part in American history.
In August of 1786, Daniel Shays and a large group of Revolutionary War
veterans stopped the civil court from 'sitting' in Northampton. Shays’ Rebellion led to an attack on the
nearby Springfield armory and it involved thousands of ex-soldiers. It also drew retired General George
Washington back into public life, leading to his 2 terms as our first
President.
To learn
about Shays’ Rebellion and its many ramifications on American history, go to https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shays%27_Rebellion.
For an
appetizer, we ordered Fitzwilly’s Gorgonzola and Garlic Bread. ($10.95) This
lovely loaf of garlic bread was served with melted gorgonzola and alloutte
cheese. It was excellent…and very
filling too!
Laurie
chose the Fish and Chips for her entrée. ($16.95) Fresh haddock fillets were
dipped in beer batter and flash fried, then served with French fries and some
nice coleslaw. Laurie enjoyed her meal
but I did ‘have to’ help her finish off one of those fish fillets and a few fries…
For my
dinner, I chose the Bacon, Shrimp and Asparagus Pasta. I can’t tell you what it cost as it doesn’t
seem to be on the current menu. It’s a
pity too as I really enjoyed it. I love
shrimp, asparagus and pasta…plus everyone knows that everything is better with
bacon!
We made a
good choice for our evening meal! Fitzwilly’s
Restaurant and the Toasted Owl Bar is located at 23 Main Street in Northampton
Massachusetts. Phone: 413-584-8666. This restaurant’s website is at: https://www.fitzwillys.com/.
After
diner it was dusk and we walked around for a little while to work off some of
our ‘lite’ meal. I had to take a photo
of this closed old time train car diner just across from Fitzwilly’s. It dates back to the 1930s and for 24 years,
it was called “Kathy’s Diner”. Before
that is was the “Red Lion Diner” and the “Miss Northampton Diner”. It had been vacant since June of 2013. Hopefully someone will restore it and open it
for business once again!
This
beautiful old hotel is the Hotel Northampton.
Built in 1927, it is a member of the Historic Hotels of America. It features 106 guestrooms and suites. Lewis Wiggins constructed the hotel and part
of his goal was to achieve museum status for the hotels furnishings. Many of those antiques still grace the
hallways, restaurants and lobby.
Wiggins
actually disassembled and moved a 141 year old tavern to incorporate into his
hotel. It was actually a tavern that one
of his ancestors had built. He
reassembled what is now a 200 year old tavern in the hotel. This hotel and tavern have housed and fed
many celebrities and famous people. They
include the Dalai Lama, Dwight Eisenhower, Nicole Kidman, David Bowie, John F.
Kennedy, Franklin and Eleanor Roosevelt, Richard Nixon, Calvin Coolidge, Bob
Dylan, Jenny Lind, Stephen King, Wynton Marsalis and Leonard Nimoy.
For more information about this hotel, its rates and dining opportunities, go to http://www.hotelnorthampton.com/.
As we
departed the area the next morning, we passed this amazing and attention getting
structure. This is the Northampton City
Hall. It was built in 1850. Its designer conceived of it as a novelty,
combining the Gothic, Tudor and Norman styles…complete with arrow slits in the
towers.
Sadly, in
a 1923 restoration of this building, the historic second floor auditorium was
lost. Back in the day it seated
1,000 people, playing host to Jenny Lind, P.T. Barnum, Horace Greeley,
William Lloyd Garrison, Oliver Wendell Holmes, Ralph Waldo Emerson, Sojourner
Truth and Frederick Douglass.
One more
footnote about Northampton. It is the
home of Smith College. Graduates of this
independent women’s college include Sylvia Plath, Barbara Bush, Nancy Regan,
Gloria Steinem and Julia Child.
That’s
all for now. Just click on any of the
photos to enlarge them…
Thanks
for stopping by for a visit!
Take
Care, Big Daddy Dave
Glad you enjoyed your visit but a "most liberal city" is not a place this ole conservative would want to spend much time.
ReplyDeleteLovely and informative post as always, thanks friend David. Don't know whether I mentioned it before or not, but you really should start writing for your local news paper if unless you are doing so already. PS: Regarding my "group hug" blog … I fully understand where you are coming from as a security guy … Oh, and I think that video was done in Victoria, BC, Canada … one of my favourite places on Vancouver Island. Love, cat.
ReplyDeleteOh, and Happy beginning of Spring and Happy Super Moon. Love, cat.
Delete