Wednesday, November 7, 2018

Dinner at Capt. Daniel Packer Inne and Restaurant


Following our exploration of Mystic Seaport Museum in Connecticut, a short visit to Watch Hill Rhode Island and a drive to Attleboro Massachusetts to check out our former home, we were back in Mystic Connecticut and it was time for dinner…



Our restaurant of choice for the evening was right across from a marina on the Mystic River.  That blue yacht in the second photo caught my eye…


This is the 90 foot luxury yacht Skyline.  She was built by Horizon in Taiwan and was completed earlier this year.  She has a crew of 3 or 4 and her 5 cabins can accommodate up to 10 guests.  She’s powered by 2 Caterpillar diesel engines with a combined 2,272 horsepower.  Her fuel tanks will hold 13,000 gallons.  I was a little surprised to note that given her sleek look, her top speed is only 16 knots.  

However, she is definitely a luxury vessel!  The design requirements specified by her owners take this ultra-modern yacht over the top.  To view several photos showing the interior beauty of this yacht, just go to https://www.superyachttimes.com/yacht-news/superyacht-of-the-week-sensational-skyline



This was our dining destination for the evening…the Captain Daniel Packer Inne Restaurant and Tavern.  Captain Packer purchased the land in 1754 and completed the structure in 1756.  The property remained in the family from 1754 until the late 1900s!

Back in the 1700s, the inn was a welcome landmark for travelers going between Boston and New York.  Captain Packer had an advantage over any possible competitors as he also operated a rope ferry across the Mystic River just opposite the inn. 




This historic landmark underwent complete restoration beginning in 1979.  It took 4 years!  Preservation of the original fireplaces, mantles, beams and other structural details were achieved via methods of construction similar to those used in the 1700s. 

We dined in the area near the bar on the lower level.  It felt like a room from the late 1700s…with lots of wood, low level lighting, a fireplace, etc.  I took the photo of the upper level dining room as we left the inn after dinner.  From what I’ve read, private dining rooms are also available at the inn.


We started out our meal with a couple of appetizers.  This was the Roasted Garlic with butter and a warm baguette. ($6.00 full/$4.00 half) We hadn’t had anything like this since we moved out of Chicago back in 2009.  It was wonderful!


Our second appetizer was Captain Daniel Packer’s version of the Fried Calamari. ($11.00) This was the first of several enjoyable experiences with spicy fried calamari during our trip.  This version was cooked and served with sliced hot pepper, green onions and roasted garlic cream sauce.  We really liked this change from the usual fried calamari!


Sorry for the dark photo… This was Laurie’s Surf and Turf entrée. ($34.00) Once again she had lobster!  She wouldn’t order this special unless I agreed to eat part of her pot roast.  No problem there!  We were both happy!


This was my entrée.  I ordered the Salmon ($28.00) in order to be ‘healthy’ and also because I knew that part of Laurie’s beef was coming my way!  My salmon was very nice and Laurie’s steak was certainly above average…

This was a very nice dining experience.  The Captain Daniel Packer Inne, Restaurant and Tavern is located at 32 Water Street in Mystic Connecticut.  Phone: 860-536-3555.  Website: www.danielpacker.com. 

…and so ended the 5th day of our exploration of the American northeast!

Just click on any of the photos to enlarge them.

Thanks for stopping by for a visit!

Take Care, Big Daddy Dave

Monday, November 5, 2018

Wandering on a Rainy Afternoon...


Shortly after our visit to Mystic Seaport in Mystic Connecticut, we still had plenty of time for further exploration… I’d done a little research ‘just in case’ and I’d noted that Watch Hill Rhode Island was just on the other side of the Connecticut state line and that it was listed everywhere as a scenic small town.

So, off we went! 


Watch Hill is a little isolated…several miles south off Interstate I-95.  It’s situated at the tip of a peninsula, (the most southwester point in Rhode Island), just across Little Narragansett Bay from Connecticut.  From here, boaters have easy access to Block Island Sound and Long Island Sound.

Our first impression was disappointment… This new looking ‘touristy’ shopping area is right off the main street of Watch Hill and adjacent to Watch Hill Cove.  The weather didn’t help our exploration much as it ranged from drizzle to rain while we were in town.  Despite the weather, the ‘downtown’ area was very busy and parking was at a premium.

As per Wikipedia, Watch Hill is an affluent coastal village in the Town of Westerly Rhode Island.  It gained prominence in the late 1800s and early 1900s as an exclusive summer resort.  Wealthy families built huge Victorian ‘cottages’ along the peninsula. 


This was the view along one end of the main street in the business center/shopping area in Watch Hill.  It’s uninspiring… Apparently Watch Hill’s waterfront was once lined with huge Victorian hotels.  Unfortunately, fire and hurricanes destroyed almost all of them in the 1900s.  

Despite the destruction of most of the hotels, the town still has a 629 acre historic district that is listed on the U.S. National Register of Historic Places.  If the weather had been better and if my better half hadn’t had another idea, we probably would have explored the side streets and checked out the old homes in the village.

Note:

·         Notable current and former residents of Watch Hill include: Taylor Swift, Conan O’Brien, Andrew Mellon, Henry Ford and Clark Gable.


We decided that we’d find somewhere to have a light lunch and take a break before exploring further.  The St. Clair Annex Ice Cream and Sandwich Shop seemed to be a popular place so we decided to give it a try…


The menu was listed on a board on one wall.  Soups, hot dogs, burgers, grinders, other sandwiches, salads, etc. are offered. 



St. Clair Annex is a very casual place… Customers stand in line to place their orders and you are called when the order is ready.  Service at the counter was gruff and not terribly helpful.


We had Grey Sail Brewery Draft Flagship Ales ($5.50 each) to drink and we tried their Clam Chowder. ($5.95 cup/$7.25 bowl) We thought that the beer was very nice but that the chowder was just OK…


For a sandwich, we ordered an Italian Grinder. ($9.75) It was quite disappointing…


After our lunch, Laurie did a bit of shopping and I wandered around the waterfront taking pictures in the rain.

This is the Watch Hill Yacht Club.  This 2-story, gable-roof, shingle and stucco structure was built in 1939 on pilings in the harbor. (Watch Hill Cove) The Yacht Club was founded in 1913 but the original building was destroyed in the Great Hurricane of 1938.   The Club currently has over 400 Senior and Junior members.


Watch Hill Cove is fairly large, with the entrance channel at mid-point being 5.8 feet deep.  The cove/harbor itself is up to 9.4 feet deep.  It’s a great anchorage for small boats and mid-size yachts.  The cove is very well protected.  I’m sure that it’s quite beautiful on nice sunny days…




Overlooking Watch Hill Cove, this is Watch Hill Inn, originally called the Narragansett House.  Narragansett House was established in 1845.  It was one of 7 luxury hotels along the water’s edge in Watch Hill at the beginning of the 1900s.  The Great Hurricane of 1938, with its devastating winds and flooding, destroyed all but 2 of the hotels, Ocean House and Watch Hill Inn.  With new owners in 1985, this hotel was renamed Watch Hill Inn.  It has been carefully renovated over the years. 


I like boats…and I particularly like antique boats!  I was very pleased to spot Aphrodite moored in the harbor.  This ‘commuter’ yacht was built in 1937 by the Purdy Boat Company.  The original owner was John Hay Whitney, wealthy Wall Street financier, U.S. Ambassador to the United Kingdom, publisher of the New York Herald Tribune and President of the Museum of the Modern Art…not to mention the fact that he was a member of the wealthy and famous Whitney family. (See the following for more information about the family: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Whitney_family)

Each morning ‘Jock’ Whitney would commute on this beautiful 74 foot long ‘commuter yacht from his home on Long Island to his office via New York’s East River to his Wall Street office.  It was a 45 minute ride in each direction.
 
Over the years, guests on the Aphrodite included Fred Astaire, Sir Laurence Olivier, Spencer Tracy, Shirley Temple, Katherine Hepburn, Henry Ford II and Nelson Rockefeller.  During WWII, she was commissioned in the Coast Guard as CGR-557 and she spent much time ferrying dignitaries along the Atlantic coast and transporting President Roosevelt to and from his home in Hyde Park on the Hudson River. 

In 2005, after 33,000 man hours of effort, Aphrodite has been totally restored.  The reborn “Aphrodite” can be seen in action in the following video: https://usharbors.com/video-gallery/aboard-classic-1937-commuter-yacht-aphrodite.  


There was another antique yacht in Watch Hill Cove.  The Miss Asia, built in 1923, is a 1923 62 foot long Consolidated Speedway Luxury Commuter yacht. 

Back in 1924, Motor Boating Magazine stated that “these sleek and sexy power boats, capable of speeds up to 40 miles per hour, were popular with tycoons for zipping back and forth between their country estates and business offices in waterfront cities such as Chicago, Detroit and New York.”

Miss Asia was built for Lawrence Fisher of Fisher Body Works in Detroit Michigan.  She had several owners over the years.  In the 1950s she was purchased by John Jacob Astor VI, son of the famous tycoon who went down with the Titanic.  In the late 1980s, another owner, who was based out of Edgartown Massachusetts, hosted Diana, Princess of Wales aboard the Miss Asia.  In recent years she was purchased by Earl McMillen III, owner of McMillen Yachts and she was completely restored. 


We still had some time left and we could have explored Watch Hill a bit more…but that critical rule “Happy Wife, Happy Life” came into focus.  I decided that I could earn some valuable “points” by acceding to Laurie’s desire to check out our old house in Attleboro Massachusetts. 

So off we went…I-95 through Providence Rhode Island and on into Massachusetts exiting onto MA Hwy. 123 into Attleboro.  The photo above is a side view of our old home.  Laurie had no trouble finding our former abode even though we lived there for only about 7 months before my career careened back to Chicago Illinois. 


This front view is what our old Attleboro home looks like today… It hasn’t changed much and whoever lives there now has done a great job of maintaining the house.  It was probably the best constructed house we’ve ever lived in.  It had been built by a home builder for his daughter…hence extra care in its construction!  When we lived here, I was working for Stop and Shop Grocery Stores and its Bradlee’s Discount Store chain.


So, after a quick look around our old neighborhood, we headed south toward Newport Rhode Island and then turning east on RI Hwy. 138 with the rainfall coming down in increasing amounts.  After crossing the two impressive bridges that cross Narraganset Bay via Conanicut Island, we found our way back to I-95 and headed back to New London Connecticut.

Then we had to find a place for our evening meal…but that’s another story.

Just click on any of the photos to enlarge them.

Thanks for stopping by for a visit!

Take Care, Big Daddy Dave

Friday, November 2, 2018

Exploring Mystic Seaport (II)


…and continuing with our exploration of Mystic Seaport Museum in Mystic Connecticut.


This is the 40 foot fishing boat Florence.  She was built along the Mystic River back in 1926.  Engines powered fishing boats from the first decade of the 1900s.  The Florence is a ‘western rig dragger’, a type of fishing boat that drags a conical net across the bottom to gather fish.  In the summers, draggers were used to catch sword fish.  She is the only existing fishing vessel of this type in a museum collection.


The first engine for Florence was a 65 horsepower 6-cylinder model by Lathrop, a company that was also situated on the river.  Florence was acquired by the Museum in 1982.  She had been completely restored to her original configuration, both inside and out.  From what I could determine, she is currently being used to carry students out to Fishers Island Sound to collect marine biology specimens.   


Being a landlubber myself, I tend to think of a blacksmith shop as a place where they make horseshoes, some decorative items and basic tools.  However, I never considered their value as regards ships and smaller vessels.

This “Shipsmith Shop” was built by James Driggs on a wharf in New Bedford Massachusetts.  It is the only remaining facility of its type, specifically focused on the whaling industry that has survived from the 1800s.  Driggs, with his grandson’s help, replaced his larger building with this one in 1885.  The whaling industry was already starting to collapse…


During our visit, the blacksmith/’shipsmith’ appeared to be training someone else in the business.  Products provided for the whaling ships included harpoons, cutting irons, and ships fittings.

The Shipsmith was sold to A.J. Peters ca. 1902.  It continued in business for many years despite the fact that only a handful of whaleships remained.  The shop actually expanded in order to allow the Peters family to expand into more familiar blacksmithing operations.  The shop was still in business until 3 years after the whaling ship, Charles W. Morgan was retired in 1921.

Merrill’s Wharf and Peters “Shipsmithy” in New Bedford were the last outpost of American whaling.  C.E. Peters was probably the last ‘whalecraft’ manufacturer in the USA.  FYI…the whaler John R. Mantra made the last American whaling voyage, departing from New Bedford in 1927. 
 
Note:

·         The most significant invention impacting the success of the whaling trade was the invention of a “Single Fluke Temple Toggle Harpoon”.  It worked much like a toggle bolt works, opening after penetrating the wall or whale, and securing it firmly.  It was invented ca. 1845 by African American blacksmith, Lewis Temple.  His son, Lewis Temple Jr. worked for James Driggs at his shipsmithy. 



The ships chandlery was the ‘general store’, both retail and wholesale, for ships and crew.  Like any good merchant, a successful chandler knew what was needed locally, whether for whaling, shipping, fishing or ship building, and he insured that he could meet those needs.  

Ships provisions were the responsibility of a shipping agent, a person who was hired by the ship owners to manage supplies and equipment.  He also saw to necessary repairs, freight, towage and the hiring of officers and crew members.  Sometimes, the chandler himself served as a shipping agent.


Of course, back in the early days of shipping and whaling, a lack of refrigeration restricted what items could be brought on board for long voyages.  However, chandlers provided salted fish and meat, hardtack, molasses, potatoes, onions and other winter vegetables as well as spices, flour, rum and tobacco.  Sailors bought clothing, boots and blankets.  The ships themselves required navigational instruments, lanterns, buoys, logs, inkstands, needles, beeswax, canvas, marine hardware, paints, oils and caulking compounds.  

The Ship Chandlery at Mystic Seaport displays many objects from the collection that would have been available in such a ships store in the 1800s.  You can see anchor balls, lights, bomb lance guns, hoops, caulking irons, lamps, chests, biscuits/hardtack, rope and ships wheels… Chandleries were truly general stores for the sea!



The Charles W. Morgan is the last remaining ship from an American whaling fleet that sailed for more than 200 years and which numbered more than 2,700 vessels.  The Morgan was built and launched at New Bedford Massachusetts in 1841.  As such, this 177 year old ship is now America’s oldest commercial ship still afloat.  FYI…only “Old Ironsides”, the USS Constitution is older.  In 1966, she was designated as a National Historic Landmark. 
 
The Morgan is 113 feet long and she usually sailed with an international crew of 35 from around the world, over 1,000 in total.  She embarked on 37 whaling voyages, most of them lasting 3 or more years.  Between 1888 and 1904, she called San Francisco her home port.  She was built for durability, not speed, and she roamed all over the world in pursuit of whales.  The Morgan is known as a ‘lucky ship’.  She safely navigated ice fields and flows, survived hostile cannibals, endless storms and several passages around Cape Horn.  After 80 years of whaling, Morgan ended her quest in 1921.
 
The Charles W. Morgan made her 38th voyage in the summer of 2014.  Following a 5-year restoration project, the Mystic Seaport Museum took her back to sea.  She visited her original home port of New Bedford, as well as Newport Rhode Island, Boston Massachusetts and New London Connecticut.  Her mission was to raise awareness of America’s maritime heritage and to focus attention on issues of oceanic conservation.   


This photo of the Charles W. Morgan’s deck shows 2 huge ‘try pots’.  Early in the whaling industry, oil was rendered from blubber in try pots onshore.  Later on, whaling ships frequently featured a ‘trywork’, a brick furnace and a set of pots built into the deck.  This feature allowed whaling ships to stay at sea hunting for whales longer, boiling out their oil as they were harpooned.  This technological advance enabled the success of the Yankee whaling industry.

The deck of the Morgan is 106 feet long and her beam measures 27 feet, 9 inches.  Fully rigged she carries 7,134 feet of sail.  The ship was featured in 3 early films, ‘Miss Petticoats’ (1916), ‘Down to the Sea in Ships’ (1921) and ‘Java Head’ (1923).  When her career ended in 1921, the Morgan was preserved by Whaling Enshrined, Inc. and she was exhibited in South Dartmouth Massachusetts.  In 1941, she came to Mystic Seaport and to this day, she continues to dominate the waterfront here…

Note:

·         Over her 80 years of whaling, the Charles W. Morgan brought back 54,483 barrels of whale oil and 152,934 pounds of whale bone (baleen).


This is the inside of Mystic Seaport’s cooperage.  This was a shop that built round wooden containers (barrels or casks).  These containers were essential at sea and ashore, used to store many products.  Aboard ship, they contained provisions and on fishing and whaling vessels, they contained the catch from the sea. 

A cooper was a regular member of a whaleship’s crew.  He was expected to assemble pre-made casks as needed to hold the whale oil.  Not only was he responsible for insuring the casks were leak-proof, he was also in charge of the accuracy of measure held in them…

Coopers made both ‘tight’ and ‘slack’ casks/barrels.  Tight casks were used for spirits (such as rum), molasses, whale oil, etc.  Slack casks were used for flour, potatoes, apples, dishes or anything that wasn’t liquid that needed to be transported. 




One building at Mystic Seaport contained this exhibit showing the Mystic River area as it appeared ca. 1870.  The 12 foot by 40 foot diorama is scaled to 3/32 of an inch equals 1 foot.  Providing visitors with a look back in history, the display features more than 250 detailed homes, shops, barns and lofts, plus 5 local shipyards. 



This General Store/Grocery Store was originally built in 1850 as a home near Pawcatuck Connecticut.  It was given to the museum in 1954.  The exhibit inside is the result of a retired local merchant who personally stocked the shelves with his own collection of historic items.  Note the youngsters listening to the docent explaining the wares on display. 


This is the Wood Carver’s Shop at Mystic Seaport.  The age of sail was marked and celebrated with ship’s figureheads and other ornate decorative carvings.  All too frequently, these old carvings are all that remains of many vessels from the 1800s.  The Mystic Seaport Ship Carver exhibit portrays the shop of a skilled independent tradesman and his staff.


Carvers such as this artist worked to carve ship’s nameboards, trailboards, figureheads and sternboards for boats.  They also carved shop signs, tobacconists’ figures, ornate fencing and a variety of decorations intended for the home. 

Carvings on a ship were intended to show pride to catch the attention of the public.  Commercial vessels were required to have a name and that was a big part of the carver’s business.  Choosing a name that the shippers would remember with a memorable figurehead was important to ship owners.
Wood carvers and the business of creating carvings for ships was rarely part of the shipbuilder’s business.  In the second half of the 1800s when Mystic had 6 shipyards operating on the river, one local business did most of the carvings for all the shipyards.

FYI…Mystic Seaport’s Wood Carving Shop offers 5 day hands-on workshops teaching the fundamentals of the art.  The next workshop is scheduled for January 2019.


I’d love to have a carving like this depiction of a Tobacco Store Indian.  I have no idea what a new full size carving like this would cost but I did discover a website offering a wide variety of antique wood and metal figures like this.  Prices for wood figurines roughly range from $40,000 to $80,000.  One of the most expensive Indian wood figurines pictured on this site originally cost $175.00 back in 1875!   In the market?  Check out what’s available at http://www.cigarstoreindians.com/.


The family of William Hall Sr., a New York import merchant made their home in this coastal farmhouse in the 1830s.  The home was originally located in Saybrook Connecticut, close to the ferry crossing at the mouth of the Connecticut River.  It was purchased in 1833 from the estate of Samuel Buckingham. 

In 1951, the construction of a new highway bridge across the river meant that this home might be razed.  Mystic Seaport decided to save it and it was shipped to its current location via barge. 

The current exhibit in the home is entitled “Voyaging in the Wake of the Whalers”.  It’s an exploration of America’s historic as well as current relationship with whales and whaling.  It’s all about stories about the people, places, ships and whales that impacted and were impacted by whaling since the Charles W. Morgan was built in 1841.

To learn more about this exhibit, you can just go to https://www.mysticseaport.org/locations/voyaging-in-the-wake-of-the-whalers/.





Several buildings contain sea and whale hunting exhibits.  I love quality ship models and these three were among those on display.  I failed to capture the names of the first two ships…the first one is a warship…but the third one is a model of the freighter City of New York.  Many actual ships were named City of New York or New York City.


Some of the displays focused on whale based products and that included these corsets.  Baleen from whales was the equivalent of plastics today.  It is a strong and flexible product.  Baleen, commonly called whalebone, was used as corset stays, in crinoline petticoats, back-scratchers, umbrella handles, false teeth, chess pieces, collar stays, toys, walking stick handles, buggy whips and piano keys.

Whales were primarily hunted for their oil.  Boiled out of the blubber, which can be as much as 11 inches thick, it was widely used in oil lamps and for lubricating machinery.  It was also used in soaps, paint, varnish, textiles and rope.  “Spermaceti” from Sperm Whales was highly valued to create high quality candles and perfumes…

Of course, whales were and still are hunted for their blubber as food…these days mostly by native peoples in the artic.  Even whale tendons were put to use, sometimes as strings on tennis racquets.  Another use was as a key ingredient in margarine and cooking oils.  Whatever remained was used as fertilizer or in animal feed.

Note:   

·         As a material for its many human uses, baleen is usually called whalebone.  However it is not really whalebone.  Baleen is a filter-feeder system in the mouths of baleen whales.  It resembles bristles and it’s made from keratin, the same substance found in human hair and nails.   


Other uses derived from whale hunting include various art forms.  In their down time, sailors would carve scenes on whale teeth.  The result is scrimshaw.  A fine example is pictured above. 

The import of new whales teeth or ivory into the United States is illegal and without provenance showing its legal origin, it will be seized by U.S. Customs.  High quality pieces of antique whales tooth scrimshaw by outstanding craftsmen can cost many thousands of dollars. 


This photo shows whale’s vertebrae from 2 different types of whales.  The size of these pieces is impressive.  Many pieces like this were carved by sailors too…scrimshaw can be created using bone from many animals and even baleen from whales.
 

This is a native Alaskan waterproof parka.  It was sewn together using intestines from sea-mammals.  Items like this were used by native peoples in the western arctic. 


This is another sailor’s art form.  This shell valentine from Charles W. Morgan during the 1800s was created by a ship’s crew member.   It was presented to the museum in 1941 on the Morgan’s 100th birthday in New Bedford Massachusetts.


At the height of Mystic’s shipbuilding activity in the mid-1800s, the Greenmanville Seventh Day Baptist Church was an important element of the town.  It was built near its current location ca. 1851 largely with the support of local shipbuilding families.  As the shipyards declined in the late 1800s, the congregation shrunk and the church closed in 1904.  After subsequently serving as a private residence and as an apartment building, the church was acquired by Mystic Seaport in 1955. 

In these 2 posts, I’ve only just scratched the surface of the sights and history presented at Mystic Seaport.  The Museum is home to more than 500 historic watercraft and I’ve only featured a fraction of the 60 historic buildings on the grounds.  We didn’t check out all of the special exhibits either and we never got around to visiting the Henry B. DuPont Preservation Shipyard where shipwrights restore and maintain the many ships and watercraft.

The Mystic Seaport Museum is an excellent destination for anyone interested in American history, whaling, and our nation’s seafaring past.  Admission is $28.95 for adults, $26.95 for seniors and $18.95 for youth between 4 and 14 years of age.  Mystic Seaport is open daily from 9 AM until 5 PM.  It is located at 75 Greenmanville Avenue in Mystic Connecticut.  Phone: 860-572-0711.  Website: https://mysticseaport.org.   

Just click on any of the photos to enlarge them…

Thanks for stopping by and sharing our tour with us!

Take Care, Big Daddy Dave